I love Dhaka and I fear Dhaka. I have made good friends on previous trips, in 2002 and 2008. I’ve had life-changing experiences here—seen amazing photography, heard brilliant and inspiring lectures. I have learned to dart through honking and careering vehicles—cars, rickshaws, mini taxis, buses, trucks, motorcycles, three-wheeled cycles—without hyperventilating. Or (so far) getting killed. But I must admit that many of the everyday sights still shock my bourgeois American sensibility.
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